Under The Milky Way

Meeting The Locals

2009-11-07T08:50:00.005-05:00

One of the little pleasures of the Camino, and an oppotrunity to take a break from walking, was when I had a chance to meet the locals.

It wasn't always possible when passing through the cities, as it seems cities all over the world, even in the timeless medieval cities of Spain, people are busy. But it was a joy when we went through Viana and they were celebrating their Patron Saint with a fiesta, complete with parades and a traditional running of the bulls. We could not stop long enough to enjoy a whole day of festivities, but did have lunch at a sidewalk cafe right in the heart of the activities.

In the rural countryside, in the small villages and tiny hamlets, where they live at a more leisurely pace, there were many days when I had an opportunity to talk to local folk, on their farms, in their gardens, or just relaxing in the sun by the side of the road.

I found that they have a great respect for Pilgrims and are warm and friendly, curious about foriegners and open to conversation.

It was a small part of my day that I remember often. One of those little gifts of the Camino that is still very much alive; that I can turn around in my mind, hold up and enjoy; and savor them as special moments in a never ending journey.

I wish you peace, love and laughter

Rita

PS-click on photos to enlarge

Following The Signs

2009-10-24T15:39:00.004-04:00

The tomb of Santiago (Saint James) is most assuredly the most sign posted location in the world. With thousands of kilometers of paths from all over Europe, there are more signs and yellow arrows than one could ever count. I wonder if anyone has tried.

The signs range from large signs that can be easily seen to small and obscure, to faded yellow arrows that can be elusive to the eye.

They can be anywhere.

On a rock in the middle of a grape vineyard.

On a sidewalk.

On a tree or stonewall leading into the forest.

In the middle of the road.

Just about anywhere that a yellow arrow can be painted.

And when there are no signs, Pilgrims make their own, just so the next person won't get lost.

It is easy to lose the way, by chatting, daydreaming, not paying attention, or paying too much attention to beautiful scenery.

One must be vigilant about looking for signs, and it is particularly important to look carefully for signs when walking in the dark.

Being attentive and looking for signs while walking the Camino, again made me realize how true it is that the Camino de Santiago becomes that metaphor for life. Every day we must be attentive and look for "signs". The signs that keep us on the right path, that help us find our way when we have strayed, that keep us moving in a forward direction, that keep is mindful, helpful, generous and kind.

Call it what you will, intuition, gut feeling, grace. There is always that little "sign", that magic moment when we have a choice to act in a certain way to be more loving, more giving, more appreciative of the things around us, more attentive and more caring of our fellow human beings.

"We are not human beings having a spiritual experience, we are spiritual beings having a human experience."

There are opportunities to realize the truth of the above statement every day of our lives, we just have to be silent, watch, feel, and look for the signs.

I wish you peace, love and laughter
Rita

note: You may have to click on the photo to enlarge to see where the yellow arrows are.

Continuing on the Path

2009-10-20T17:16:00.002-04:00

We have been home for a few days now but I cannot funtcion. I can't get the Camino out of my mind. It seems unnatural to just get back in the old routine of every day life.

I can feel the effects of the long journey physically, through the stiffness throughout my body, especially my legs.

But mostly the emotions of the journey are whirling through my mind. There is so much to digest from what we experienced that I can't let it go. I had so many profound lessons and peak moments that I have to sit with and think about. I need to make room to work on the things I have gleaned from the journey.

It wouldn't make sense to take such an arduous journey and then just let it go as if it were just another trip.

A very select group have the privilege, the desire and the ability of making such a trip. In my case it was more of a "calling". So I think that call was for a reason. That is the part I am still trying to figure out.

I do believe that the Camino is a methaphor for life. There are constantly lessons for us to learn from each other and teach each other in the course of our every day life.

Although I am still in the dark, I have faith that my messages and lessons will be revealed to me as I continue to walk this journey that we call life.

Blessings to all
Rita

Embracing Saint James

2009-10-16T14:31:00.002-04:00

We spent our last 3 days in Santiago, exploring the streets of the medieval old town, and generally relaxing and enjoying good food, good friends and the city sights.

I spent a lot of time going back to the cathedral, the Pilgrim's office and the giant plaza, looking for friends and other Pilgrims and sharing the pleasure of their arrivals. And I loved going to the cathedral early in the morning and sitting quietly and having Saint James to myself.

One of the traditions is to go behind the altar in the cathedral and give Saint James an embrace. It was a special Camino moment for me, to finally greet the Saint that I had walked so far for.

I made sure I was early to attend the Pilgrims Mass, so that I could get a good seat in the cathedral.
The Pilgrim's Mass is overflowing each day with 800 to 1,000 including Pilgrims, other worshipers and tourists.
It was quite a thrill to see that even during the Mass the tradition of hugging Saint James continued and every now and them my attention was drawn to the rear of the huge gold and silver altar to see Pilgrims giving Saint James an embrace.

Another tradition is to walk or take a bus to Finesterre, which was believed to be the end of the world during medieval times. My journey was complete when I reached Saint James, so I had no desire to go any further. I did hear from fellow Pilgrims who made the journey that it did not have the same feeling as being on the Camino; that it was not a the pilgrimage, but just a beautiful walk to the ocean.

I think that leaving Santiago de Compostela was more emotional than arriving, if that's possible. I felt like I needed more time to absorb and reflect on my experience before returning home. But when it came time, I was happy to return home to my family. I will have plenty of time to sit and contemplate the messages and lessons I received from the Camino.

I wish you peace, love, and laughter
Rita

Saint James

2009-10-10T16:47:00.002-04:00

Day 33-Santiago

Even though we have arrived and the long trek is done, I was up early and anxious to go.
I walked to the cathedral, only 2 or 3 minutes away. To my surprise it was open.
Even better, I had it all to myself, except a very few other early risers.
I surprised myself. Instead of going directly to Saint James, whom I traveled so far to greet, I went to the Virgen Mary. I thanked her for her prayers along my journey. I think I said more Hail Marys while walking the Camino than I've said all my life.
Then I went to Jesus and thanked him for walking with me as my Savior and my brother.
When I finally sat down in front of the gorgeous gold and silver and bejeweled altar with Saint James in front of me I was awestruck.
No tears, no sound, no thoughts, just me and James.
We looked at each other for what seemed like eternity.
Silence, pure, gorgeous, beautiful silence.
Then I wondered...who had more reverence...me for the Saint?...or the Saint for me?...and I recalled that the gospel tells us that James, son of Zebadee, was in his boat mending fishing nets when Jesus summoned him saying "Follow me and I will make you a fisher of men". James and his brother followed Jesus.
And if one considers that 100,000 people a year make the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela to visit his burial place, it would seem that James is still a "fisher of men" more than 2000 years later.
I smiled at the thought and it seemed like old Jimmy smiled back, and that is when the tears started to flow.

Peace and Love to all
Rita
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Santiago de Compostela

2009-10-09T17:30:00.002-04:00

Day 32-Pedrouza-Santiago de Compostela
6 hours 30 minutes-21.2 km

We were all up at 5AM. I think the excitement of reaching Santiago today was somewhat like a child that can't sleep on Christmas morning.
We were walking by 6AM. It was still dark when we reached the Santiago airport.
We climbed our last hill Monte Gozo (Mount Joy), so named because atop the hill the Pilgrim gets the first joyful glimpse at the spires of the cathedral of the Saint they have walked so far to see.
Unfortunately for us the day was rainy and overcast so we couldn't see much through the fog and mist.
When we got to the outskirts of Santiago, the walk seemed interminable. Then about 5 km before arrival Heidi started getting severe hip and leg problems. I gave here my trekking poles to help and she hobbled slowly and painfully into the city and on to the cathedral.
I wept tears of joy when I came around the corner and there was the grand cathedral looming in front of me. I walked up the stairs weeping, and entered, but the Mass had already started and Heidi needed to get to our lodgings.
Once the girls got settled in, I went back to Praza do Obradoiro, the "golden square" in front of the cathedral where throngs of Pilgrims gather. The square was filled with excitement.
I saw many Pilgrim friends. We embraced and took many photos and even shed a few tears with some that had been with us from the beginning.
It has been a very exciting and emotional day.
My head is still spinning.
Blessings to all
Rita
(The photo only shows a portion of the magnificent cathedral.)
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Mixed Feelings

2009-10-08T16:17:00.003-04:00

Day 31-Arzua-Pedrouza
6 hours 32 minutes-21 km

A very relaxing walk today. The girls and Ron were out late last night, one of the drawbacks of staying at a hotel(or one of the bonuses, depending on how you look at it).
We got a late start, and actually started walking in daylight for the first time.
A delightful walk. Heidi and Ellen like to stop at every coffee shop!
Although the rain held off all day, it felt like walking through a rain forest. The air was heavy and thick with moisture.
The landscape is still lush and green and we passed through more eucalyptus forests, but now we have tropical climate and plants. There are palm trees, banana trees and even cactus.
And as always along the Camino the ancient medieval villages that time has passed by.
Most of the villages grew out of the need of serving the pilgrims and have changed little over time.
We went out for dinner tonight and had our best Pilgrim meal.
It has been an emotional day for me.
Tomorrow I walk into Santiago. I have mixed feelings.
It will be the end of a long hard journey....or will it?
How will I feel when I enter the city? Or when I finally greet the Saint that I journeyed so far for?
What are the lessons I have learned?
What does all the pain and suffering and struggle and perserverance signify?

Peace, love and laughter
Rita
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Eucalyptus and Torrential Downpours

2009-10-07T16:47:00.003-04:00

Day 30-Palas de Rei-Arzua
10 hours-30.1 km
We started out in the dark, in the rain, and straight uphill. It was up and down hills all day and it rained off and on most of the day.
Some of the walk was along the roadside and through an industrial area going into the town of Melide.
But we walked through Eucalyptus forests off and on all day. And what a wonderful pungent fragrance it was.
Synthetic sports fabrics are marvelous. They are very lightweight, dry in a flash, easy to wear and durable. However they do hold body odor. And after 30 days of hand washing, no matter how diligent and thorough a job you do; in this humid, rainy climate of Galicia, you can smell the body odor at the first sign of dampness.
So, after 3 days or rain and dampness, today was a pleasure walking through the fragrant eucalyptus forests.
The above time for walking is a bit skewed because of 2 delays.
When the girls arrived in the airports of Madrid and Santiago, they tried to exchange dollars for euros, but unfortunately both airports money exchange systems were not functioning.
Today has been the first day we were in a town big enough to have a bank, and us being here during banking hours. I'll skip all the boring details and just say that after 1 1/2 hours, several banks and ATMs only one girl ended up with euros. It was very frustrating and a delay we did not need.
The second delay was when we had just stopped at a bar for a coffee break and no sooner had we ordered our coffee, we turned around to see that outside there was a torrential downpour that lasted over 30 minutes.
Heidi and Ellen were delighted to have such a long break but as soon as it slowed down we had to move on.
We walked in the rain for several hours more until we got to our destination.
It was a very long, very exhausting day, but so joyful and so rewarding in so many ways.
The girls did well and after yesterdays dingy hostal and cold showers they wanted to stay at a hotel.
So we 4 are cozily settled in a nice hotel room tonight and it is still pouring out.
Ron and the girls are downstairs in the bar having a well deserved bottle of wine.
Blessings to all
Rita
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A Different Camino

2009-10-06T15:52:00.002-04:00

Day 29-Portomarin-Palas de Rei
8 hours 15 minutes-27.1 km

We started of by the light of the full moon walking steeply uphill. It started to rain and continued to rain off and a good part of the day, but the countryside was filled with farms. We walked through several tiny farming hamlets. We met a few locals when passing through them and the girls had an opportunity to talk with them. They are amazed at the local hospitality and true warmth for the Pilgrims in this rural area.
One local farm couple were taking their herd of cows out to pasture and invited us to walk with the herd. We had a great conversation with the herdswoman.
We enjoyed watching the little dog work the herd and when one bull went astray it was amazing to watch the little dog take charge over the huge bull and in no time had the bull back with the herd.
Ellen and Heidi did great on this long tough walk today. They were ready to quit toward the end of the walk but we took a few minutes break and they were fine again.
I remember how exhausting the first few days were. I am really proud of how well they did.
Tonight we all had dinner with our Jesuit friend Philip; then we were joined by friends from Australia who will slow down tomorrow, so we won't see them again. So we stayed and had a farewell drink with them and Philip who we may not see again.
We talked about the feel of the Camino and how it has changed in the past few days.
One only needs to walk the last 100 km to receive a "Compostela" certificate so there are so many new Pilgrims on the road. We hardly see any of the Pilgrim friends we started with.
I am so happy that Heidi and Ellen are here to enjoy these last days with us.
Blessings to all
Rita

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Taxi Anyone??

2009-10-05T14:29:00.002-04:00

Day 28-Sarria-Portomarin
7 hours 50 minutes-24.4 km

Last night the girls arrived by taxi and got dropped off in front of an ancient stone church near our Pilgrim Hostal, to the sound of the church bells ringing, as if witnessing and rejoicing their arrival.
They only had time for a shower, a bite to eat and a visit to the beautiful church.
The walk today was equally as magnificent as the past few days with all the canopied woodland trails, open panoramic vistas, and peaceful country villages that time has passed by.
I am so happy that the girls' first day was so gorgeous. Their excitement brought back memories of y first few days. They oohed and ahhed and snapped photo after photo.
The terrain was not easy. We had a long steady uphill trek most of the day, with a very steep descent. At one point the girls knees were so bad, they tried walking down backwards.
Heidi is in the photo by one of the frequently seen taxi signs. I have seen many taking advantage of taxis or having a courier service carry their backpacks from one stop to the next.
The girls were on such a high with the excitement of being here and the beauty of the countryside that nearly 8 hours of walking didn't faze them.
I wish you peace, love, and laughter
Rita
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Enchanted Day

2009-10-04T12:23:00.002-04:00

Day 27-Triacastela-Sarria
8 hours 6 minutes-26 km
We started our walk in the rain and it continued to rain off and on most of the day.
Our guidebook says we ascended only 200 meters, but we climbed up and down so many times, so I think we climbed the same 200 meters over and over again all day long.
Picture this: Miles and miles of trail canopied over with ancient ivy covered trees on one side, an 8 foot high moss covered timeless stonewall on the other side, a flowing river with several waterfalls and ancient stone bridges, little hamlets with tiny centuries old churches and one of the oldest most gorgeous monasteries in Spain.
That was our Camino today.
A long hard trek with lots of climbing, but the most enchanting day so far.
Now, in less than an hour, our daughter Heidi and our friend Ellen will arrive to walk the rest of the way to Santiago with us.
Blessings to all
Rita
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Three Caminos

2009-10-03T12:45:00.002-04:00

Day 26-OCebreiro-Triacastela
6 hours 40 minutes-21.7 km

There is a saying in Spanish about the Camino. Loosely translated it goes like this:
The first part to tame the body. (Roncesvalles to Burgos)
The second part to tame the spirit.(Burgos to Leon)
The third part for the pleasure of the soul.(Galicia)
I think it holds pretty true.
The long hard days of trekking through the Pirenees certainly let's you know that your body is much more capable than we give it credit for and we push it each day beyond its limits.
Then there is the flat, hot, shadeless plains of the Meseta that seem to defy all rules of time. Patience is tried. It becomes a challenge of the will to endure the boring hot lonely landscape.
Now we are in Galicia, the final stage.
So far it has been magical and spirit lifting. Trekking hard terrain I still feel light and alive.
And the divine is revealed in these expansive vistas lifting my spirits.
I keep stopping, drinking in the unbelievable miracle around me.
The peace, the quiet and the beauty are overwhelming.
They bring joy to my heart and sustenance to my road worn body.
Peace, love and joy
Rita

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OCebreiro

2009-10-02T16:03:00.002-04:00

Day 25-Villafranca de Bierzo-OCebreiro
9 hours 35 minutes-36.9 km

It was a very long, difficult day, but a very exciting and rewarding one.
In the morning the trail was along side a highway, but the bonus was that we followed along side a flowing river with several small waterfalls.
The sound of the rushing water and plenty of birdsong made for a very happy day, which just kept getting better all day long.
We walked steadily uphill all day. The first 5 hours were on good flat track.
But then we started our very steep ascent to OCebreiro.
The trail was very rocky and rough, but the higher we went, the more gorgeous the panoramic views that surrounded us were.
We passed through several Celtic villages complete with Celtic music. I expected my granddaughter Holly to appear at any moment doing the Irish Step Dance.
OCebreiro is like being on top of the world with 360 degrees of brethtaking views.
The village itself is charming with all stone buildings, some round with straw roofs.
We had originally planned on 2 days to make the tough ascent. But weather perfect, outstanding scenery and storybook villages kept our spirits high.
Ron said if you can't see God by looking at this magnificent mountain scenery, you never will.
A perectly magical day, even though my feet are aching miserably.
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Celtic Country

2009-10-01T14:29:00.002-04:00

Day 24-Ponferrada-Villafranca de Bierzo
7 hours 7 minutes-24 km

Our relaxing stay yesterday in Ponferrada was highlighted with a visit to the magnificent 12th century Templar Castle.
Another bonus was the big and modern Pilgrim Hostal we stayed in. We were reunited with many friends we had lost track of including Antonio and his adorable donkey Don PePe.
It was a long walk out of the city this morning then a long stretch along a busy highway. The noise and exhaust fumes were very annoying.
The morning was shrouded in mist and we had a light drizzle most of the day.
We are now entering Celtic country and it looks very much like Ireland, with lots of rock walls and green hills. Beautiful scenery of farms, orchards, vineyards and a spattering of sheep made it a delightful walk.
We had a long steep climb at the end of the day into the picturesque town of Villafranca de Bierzo.
Tomorrow we start a few very difficult days with our highest and hardest climb of the Camino.
Love to all
Rita
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Sweet Treats

2009-10-01T01:14:00.003-04:00

Day 23-Riego de Ambros-Ponferrada
3 hours 54 minutes-9.6 km
The first 2 hours of our walk was steeply downhill on a very rocky narrow path. As usual we started walking in the dark which made for a painfully slow descent.
But after a while in the early morning light, the mountain scenery was stunning and we found that we had descended into a deep beautiful gorge.
Off and on the Camino has had wild blackberries growing along side the trail.
They are a nice excuse to stop for a few moments and enjoy a sweet treat.
Speaking of sweet treats, we only walked for just under 4 hours today!!
Then we left our backpacks and walked around Ponferrada with its beautiful churches and an impressive castle.
How great it was to walk around without a heavy pack and to have most of the day to enjoy exploring, eating ice cream, and relaxing.
Peace and Joy
Rita
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In Memory of Scott Sargent

2009-09-30T06:19:00.002-04:00

Day 22-Rabanal del Camino-Riego de Ambros
7 hours-23.7 km

We are back in the mountains. What a glorious day for walking.
The scenery was magnificent, and a few of the villages look like they were taken from the Swiss Alps and dropped here.
We had a steep long climb for the first 4 hours, then a very steep rocky descent. But surrounded by mountains, the tinkle of cow bells and the fresh mountain air made the strenuous walk a joy.
The first village we passed through was Foncebadon formerly an abandoned desolate place known for it's wild dogs that menaced Pilgrims.
Now some hippie types have settled in and run a Hostal and bar, and the only sign of animals was 2 small cats pLaying in the sun.
Our next stop was the important Camino monument in the photo, the Cruz de Ferro. A simple iron cross atop piles of small stones.
It is customary for Pilgrims to carry a few pebbles or other token of love from home and climb the pile of rocks and symbolically place our burdens and worries there, as well as memories of loved ones.
In April when I started my first week of training for the Camino, my son Eric's best friend Scott Sargent died of a heart attack at the young age of 42.
With the Camino only a dream sometime in the future, I promised myself that if I made my Pilgrimage it would be in Scott's memory.
So I placed my pebbles at the foot of the cross in Scott's memory, along with some rose pedals from a rose given to me back in April by my grandson James.
I have set aside part of my prayer time each day for Scott's 2 young sons, Eric(11) and Ryan(6) and the rest of Scott's family.
Maybe it is only my son Eric who can truly appreciate the significance of this, but when I am on a steep long climb, out of breath and cannot take another step, it is Scott's image with his scruffy beard and his easy going manner that accompanies me and my step becomes lighter and my burden is less.

Blessings to all
Rita
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Gaudi Palace

2009-09-29T03:44:00.002-04:00

Day 21-San Justo de la Vega-Rabanal del Camino
7 hours 28 minutes-26.7 km

We stopped walking just shy of Astorga by a few kilometers, but the beautiful architecture of the pretty little city of Astorga was golden in the early morning sunlight.
The photo is of a palace by Antonio Gaudi which brought back memories of a trip to Barcelona with our granddaughter Brittany and all the beautiful Gaudi buildings.
Today's walk was pleasant and easy. One long gentle uphill journey to Rabanal with a rather steep and rocky climb for the last hour. The day was perfect for walking, sunny and clear with a gentle breeze.
The landscape is changing. We passed through some very old and interesting villages.
This Camino is a photographers dream.
We are seeing a lot of new Pilgrims that just started their walk in Leon or Astorga. You can tell them by their new crisply starched clothes, white socks, new boots and spry walk.
The rest of us are a ragtag band, limping along, tattered and torn like a band of refugees.
The "newbies" haven't been toughened by the wear and tear of nearly 600 kilometers on their feet, tolerating blisters and aches and pains and swollen joints to slow them down.
We are 2 days ahead of schedule for meeting our daughter in Sarria next Monday. She will walk the last 114 km with us.
So for the next week we will walk much shorter days.
It means lagging behind our little band of Pilgrim friends and that saddens me to have to lose touch with them. But I am looking forward to the luxury of only walking about 18-20 km each day, especially since the Cantabrian Mountains are now looming right in front of us and we will have several difficult days.
I wish you peace, love, and laughter
Rita
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Angels of the Camino

2009-09-28T02:31:00.002-04:00

Day 20-Villa de Mazarife-SanJusto de la Vega
8 hours 20 minutes-28 km
Today we walked through endless cornfields for the first 5 hours, then we started our ascent of 3 long gentle hills. The climb up and down was not steep but the trail strewn with loose rock made it a miserable 3 hours of climbing with very little shade and a hot sunny afternoon.
When we got to the top of the last hill, a long slog, our feet screaming from all the loose rock; we met one of the wonderful Angels of the Camino.
David lives 15 km away but comes to that desolate spot where Pilgrims are ready to drop and he sets up his little stand of fresh fruit, homemade cake, juices, tea and coffee. He offers it all free to passing Pilgrims.
He tells me it is out of love for the Pilgrims and the Camino. He says he himself was a Pilgrim and knew the pain and exhaustion, so he wants to give something back to the Camino that means so much to him.
He is truly a Camino Angel for what he does, and there are many more like him.
There was Felicia who until she died at 100, sat in front of her little house and gave to passing Pilgrims the only thing she had. Water, figs from a tree in her garden, and love. Since her death, her daughter, now an old woman herself, has taken her place and greets Pilgrims each day with water, figs and love.
Then there is Marcelino who sets up a stand with fruits and cookies for Pilgrims. He also has a van and drives some of the road stretches of the Camino to help Pilgrims in need.
We also met Robert from England who walked the Camino and wanted to give something back. Each year he comes in his camper and sets up along side a lonely stretch of the Camino and offers English tea and cookies and first aid and foot care to passing Pilgrims.
These and others like them are truly "Angels of the Camino" and ask nothing in return for their love and kindness. They have a small donation box on their stand, but treat all the same, whether they give or not.
I know there are many more like them. And I know that I am very grateful to those that I have had the pleasure of meeting and talking with.

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A Day of Friendship and Laughter

2009-09-26T08:44:00.005-04:00

Day 19-Reliegos-Villar de Mazarife
6 hours 12 minutes-24.3 km

Leon is an amazing City: The Cathedral is a work of art and the gorgeous ancient architecture and art filled churches of Europe still continue to amaze me. We walked around in the evening and it was a city of lights, sidewalk cafes, families strolling and of course Pilgrims. I wish I had more time to explore this beautiful city, but the Camino calls and we start our walk before the sun is up.
One of the nice things about ending our walk in a large city is that in the large Pilgrim hostels you are bound to find friends that you have lost track of. And this was the case in Leon. We are never far apart, but we just don´t know exactly where we will end up each day, as we all walk at our own pace. Ron lost me twice today while he was busy walking and talking with other Pilgrims.
Our little band of Pilgrims has turned into a little family of about 10-12 special friends. We always seek each other out and are so happy to be together once we find each other again. The reunions are a fun part of the day, lots of hugs and kisses, and lots of stories to catch up on.
Todays walk was marvelous. Sunny with a nice cool breeze. We are out of the flat boring area and are now entering a prettier countryside, with a few rolling hills. Even though we walk alone, at each stop our little band of Pilgrims ended up together for a bite to eat and something to drink. Today we planned to stop at the same place for the evening. Most of us are here now, oa few moved on to the next village. We will cook a meal together and spend time in the evening in the garden drinking wine and telling stories.
We chose a funky little place with a nice garden and pool and Ron and I got here earlier than the others and were given a private room...how cool is that!
A very happy day!!

Love to All
Rita

Oasis in the Middle of Termoil

2009-09-25T15:31:00.002-04:00

Day 18-Reliegos-Leon
7 hours 30 minutes-25.2 km

The walk today was again on boring flat track with little shade. The approach to Leon was along busy highways with lots of construction going one. Dodging traffic and hearing the large construction vehicles noisily raising dust as they raged past us made the walk very frustrating. With a long steep climb and very long sharp descent on a washed out road toward the end of the day, made the walking not at all fun today.
But we had a gloreous experience that made the whole day worth while. When passing through one intersection a man opened the gate to his property and I got a strong whiff of onions and earth.
We exchanged good mornings and I said "You must be working in your garden" at which he beckoned us to enter his garden. Ron and I are both suckers for a nice garden so I knew a glimpse would be a treat.
It was like magic...no noise, peace and tranquility and good old fashion Spanish hospitality.
The man had a wheel barrow full of his freshly harvested onions as big as grapefruits. I commented how beautiful they were and he said this years crop was not so good. I asked to take a few photos of his garden and his flock of chickens and he went about his business of working in his garden. At least that is what I thought. He came out of the garden and filled my wide brim sun hat with about a dozen small tomatoes and two huge green peppers. Then he tryed to give us more. I thanked him profusely and told him I could not take any more vegetables.
So all day we munched on fresh tomatoes, but we still have two giant green peppers, as there is no kitchen in the convent we are staying at tonight, so I could not cook something up using them.
So we will cut the peppers up tonight and have them to snack on tomorrow as we walk.
This kind gesture and the few minutes in the Oasis of the tranquil garden with a kind Spanish gentleman made our day special and the walk was not so bad after all.

i wish you peace, love and laughter

Magnificent Night Sky

2009-09-24T15:17:00.003-04:00

Day 17-Calzado de Coto-Reliegos
7 hours-26.7 km

Today we walked in the dark under a magnificent sky. You could almost reach out and touch the stars.
The Camino went through fairly boring, flat land with some farmers tilling fields. It was hot and sunny with very little shade.
We can now see the Cantabrian Mountains in the far distance. We will be climbing those steep hills in a few days.
We lost track of our Korean friend Su again. His young legs were restless and he had to move on.
Ron walked all day with Philip, but most of the time I lagged behind. It was great to walk alone in quiet contemplation and prayer.
I walked for a while with a woman from Germany who only knew a few words of English, so I struggled with my limited German and between us we managed to have a nice conversation about many things.
The photo is of Ron and Philip in from of a church in a small village we passed through.
I think if you click on the photo it will enlarge and you may be able to see a stork nest on the bell tower. There are giant storks nests in the villages throughout Spain on churches, towers, or any tall structure.
It has been a very relaxing and sociable evening in the Pilgrim hostel. Lots of new people here.

Peace, love and joy
Rita
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Reunions, Milestones, and Don PePe

2009-09-24T04:33:00.002-04:00

Day 16-Caldadilla de la Cueza-Calzado de Coto
8 hours 45 minutes-26.6 km
Today we met Don PePe the donkey. He and his master stayed at the same Pilgrim hostel as us. Don PePe outdoors of course. It is not uncommon for someone to make their Pilgrimage to Santiago with a donkey. Traveling with a donkey, I am sure, has a whole set of problems of it's own which I cannot imagine.
One problem being that the donkey is the star. People are constantly running around Don PePe with cameras snapping away, causing a disturbance for the poor animal.
Everyone knows the donkey's name, but few ask the owners name.
We were happy and surprised to see our Korean friend Su last night. The little band of Korean friends split up, some had to go home, some took the bus ahead and our friend Su walked 3 long hard days and ended up at the same Pilgrim hostel as us. It was all big smiles and hugs and then the first thing he askedwas "How is your knee?"
This morning we walked in the dark with Su for a few hours before stopping in a village for breakfast.
In walked our friend Phillip who we had lost track of for a few days.
So another reunion with hugs of joy. Phillip is a Jesuit Priest who has wanted to make the pilgrimage to Santiago for many years but has always put it off. Last year he was diagnosed with a brain tumor and he decided to take a 3 month sabbatical to make his Pilgrimage and do some other traveling afer his Pilgrimage. He is a delightful man and we enjoy his company.
Today we have reached the halfway mark to Santiago. It is somewhere around the tiny village of Moratinos, population 17; 15 Spaniards and 2 ex-pats ( a retired American journalist and her Brittish husband)
Rebekah is a member of the same Pilgrim forum as I am, so I get to read her comments on line and I also read her blog, so I was excited to finally meet her.
She and her husband Paddy retired from the rat race and bought a house on the Camino and are in the process of renovating it. They welcome Pilgrims to stop by for refreshments or to stay for the night. They call it Peaceable Kingdom. The name suits it well, a very tranquil place with a nice garden, a flock of chickens and 2 dogs, and lots of warmth and hospitality.
It was a fun day filled with lots of people, lots of love, and one cute donkey.
Love to all
Rita
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A Pilgrim's Life

2009-09-22T14:53:00.002-04:00

Day 14-Itero de la Vega-Villasirga
8 hours-30.4 km
Day 15-Villasirga-Caldadilla de la Cueza
7 hours-23.3 km
Today was easy walking, but only one place to stop in the morning, then endless flat monotonous golden fields with no place to stop. It seemed to take forever to get to our destination.
A Pilgrim's life is much more than a long hard walk each day. Once at our destination we must find a Pilgrim hostel to stay at, which is usually easy as most are right along the Camino.
We get our credential stamped and dated and then claim our bed; almost always in very crowded bunkrooms.
A good hot shower is next, but sometimes it is a cold shower. None the less, we are grateful even for a cold shower to wash off the hard work and the dust of the trail.
Because we only carry one change of clothes, each day we hand wash our clothes outside the hostel in cold water.
We hope for sunshine and a breeze to dry them, but if not, the next morning we pin them to our backpack and become a walking clothesline. We are always walking westward with the sun on our back, so they dry quickly.
The next order of business is to tend to our tired, aching, blistered and swollen feet. Some Pilgrims have such severe feet problems that I don't know how they make it from one day to the next.
If we are lucky there is a Pilgrim meal. If not, we try to find a place to buy something to cook. Sometimes it is very limited, other times there is nothing. If there is a kitchen in the hostel it has only one stove or no stove and just a microwave. And everything is first come first serve. So we may not get to use the stove or micro or all the pans are in use so we can't cook.
But we all go with the flow and somehow we all manage.
By now we're are exhausted and ready for a good night sleep, but not before some good conversation and stories and some good Rioja wine.
We are up long before the sun to start all over again.
We are grateful for small kindnesses. We share in each others pain and sorrow and joys.
Two days ago when we were with two young girls from Slovakia, they got the tragic news that their 19 year old cousin was killed in an accident. We wept with them and shared their grief.
Today while we had lunch with a young girl from Ireland, she received news that her friend just delivered triplet girls. We wept tears of joy with her.
So today my prayers have been for the soul of a young Slovakian whose life has been cut short and who l will never know and for the joyful beginning of the lives of 3 little Irish triplets who I will never meet.
Life is a precious thing and we are all part of one human family.
I leave you with one beautiful word
Namaste
(It means "When the God in me greets the God in you, we are one"
Rita
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Relaxing Day

2009-09-22T02:28:00.002-04:00

Today we slept an extra hour and had breakfast before starting our walk. It is the first we started walking when it was already light out.
A very pleasant day for walking.
We are now entering into the "Meseta", similar to our midwest in the USA. No hills! Just wide flat paths through flat open fields as far as you can see, with an occasional village to stop in.
We walked a leisurely pace today, a good part of the day along a pretty canal. We stopped to take pictures of the locks and a shepherd came through with a huge flock of sheep.
We stopped a few times at outdoor cafes for food and drink
I found a pharmacy and bought some electro-lite packets to add to my water. I had been using them, but ran out and neglected to replenish them. I guess I had to learn the hard way, but it won't happen again.
Our little group of friends walked on another 6 km to the next village. We opted to stay here. Now we have met a whole new group of Pilgrims and we are fast becoming friends.
It has been a very good and relaxing day.
Love to all
Rita

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I Burned Out Today

2009-09-21T05:33:00.002-04:00

Day-13-Hornillos del Camino -Itero de la Vega
8 hours 10 minutes-33.2 km

I think that every village is at the bottom of a long steep hill, as it seems each morning we have a good climb, with the light from our little headlamp bobbing along in the dark.
We walked to what we thought would be our next destination and arrived before 11AM and the Pilgrim hostel would not be open till 3PM.
The next village was about a 2 1/2 hours away.
It is Sunday and nearly everything is closed. We got a bite to eat and decided to push on.
We had the toughest longest climb and a very steep descent. It was longer than we thought and seemed like it took forever.
We found the place we intended to stay and there was nobody there and it looked dirty and uncomfortable. We backtracked through the village and found a private hostel.
When we got there the man was explaining in Spanish and I couldn't talk to him in English, let alone Spanish.
I completely shut down. I plopped down on a chair and started crying. MELT DOWN!!
Ron arranged for our stay, I flopped on my bunk to take a nap. I started to shake uncontrollably.
I knew my sugar levels and electro-lites must be out of whack and I was having symptoms of hypothermia.
Ron got me orange juice and water, and I took a very long, and very hot shower, then slept for about I hour. Then I has some tea and a sugary pastry and another bottle of water.
I am fine now.
The high points of the day were the beautiful medieval churches, the ruins of a 14th century convent, and the ruins of a castle high on the hill above a village we passed through.
My lesson for the day is as Joyce Rupp recommends in her wonderful book "Walk In A Relaxed Manner". The title says it all.
No more rushing. Normally we stop for a break and eat something and drink plenty of water and juice, at least every 1 1/2 to 2 hours. But today we slogged on too far and too fast on a strenuous terrain without breaks.
Tomorrow will be a slow and leisurely walk with lots of breaks.
Love to all
Rita

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I Burned Out Today

2009-09-21T05:17:00.002-04:00

Magical Day

2009-09-19T13:57:00.002-04:00

Day 12-Burgos-Hornillos del Camino
4 hours 45 minute-21.2 km

Today's walk was short (less than 5 hrs) and very pleasant. The morning was very foggy leaving the city of Burgos. The scenery covered with fog made for a magical morning.
We were accompanied on our journey all day by the singing of the birds and the tinkle of sheep bells as they were shepherded through the hills.
We are staying in a small medieval village(population 100). The little old ladies are so charming sweeping the sidewalks and tending their flowers in front of their century old homes.
Last night in Burgos we visited the second largest Cathedral in Spain. With it's tall spires and 21 chapels it is an amazing and gorgeous example of architecture and spiritual beauty.
We went out to dinner last night with the couple who started to walk in Vienna in May, the Germans who started their walk in Bavaria in June, the man who started his Camino in Lichtenstein in July and a young girl from Hungary. At the next table were friends and fellow Pilgrims from Spain, England and France. We were a real united nations. It was a happy and jovial evening.
The good news of the day is that Ron was able to change his ticket and will walk to Santiago with me. I am sooo happy and Ron's back is improving.
I wish you peace, love, and laughter
Rita
PS- the photo is from the Rioja wine district
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Camino Angels

2009-09-18T10:39:00.002-04:00

Day 11-Atapuerca-Burgos
5 hours 25 minutes-20.4 km
We started off in the pouring rain, Pitch dark and had a steep rocky climb for the first hour. The path was all ledge and loose rock and with our already muddy feet it was treacherous.
It rained all day till we got to Burgos.
Today was to be my husband Ron's last day of walking. Tomorrow he would take a bus to Madrid and fly home from there and I would continue on the Camino.
For the last few days he has been saying that he would like to change his flight and continue to walk with me all the way to Santiago.
Then yesterday he had a very bad back problem and nearly couldn't walk to our destination. By the time we got there he could hardly walk and he almost dropped to his knees with back pain when taking off his backpack.
The hostel we stayed in had bunks for 6 people. Ron went off to the shower and 3 Spanish that were sharing the room with us came in. One couple and a man we had never met.
We started talking and I told them about Ron's problem and how he wanted to change his flight and continue walking but now it was almost certain that he had to return home.
Well, it turns out that the man was a military doctor and had some special anti-flammatory cream that works wonders for bad backs.
The woman with him, wife of the other man rubbed Ron's back with the cream.
There was much laughing and fun. As Pilar gave Ron's lower back and buttocks a massage. Her husband took photos with their camera and ours and we were all laughing hysterically when he kept shouting " I have the evidence for divorce, for 2 divorces!"
Ron's back felt great in no time. I asked to write down the name of the cream so I could buy some at the next pharmacy. The doctor told me that I could not buy it in any pharmacy because it is a special cream for the military. But he just happened to have an extra tube of it and a much as we tried to decline his offer, he insisted Ron take it as a gift.
Later in the evening Ron went to the restaurant for wine and saw that our 3 roommates were there and he had a bottle of wine sent to their table. Pilar came over to thank him with hugs and kisses.
They say that no matter what happens, the Camino will provide whatever you need.
So, as it turns out we have met another Camino Angel, and hopefully the special anti-flammatory cream will help Ron's back and he will change his flight and continue on to Santiago with me. Stay tuned....
Love to all
Rita
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Challenging Day

2009-09-17T13:45:00.003-04:00

Day 10-Belorado-Atapuerca
8 hours 11 minutes-33 km

A very challenging day. We walked up hill nearly all day, with a few steep declines. The Camino passes through open fields and pine and oak forests.
It was cold enough for a fleece jacket and gloves this morning in the early morning.

An overcast day meant we didn't see our shadow much today. Always moving west, we are accustomed to spending time with our shadow, literally and metaphorically. As I walked alone in silence I cannot help but look at my shadow in front of me and contemplate my "shadow self".
It is a wonderful exercise in looking inward at ouselves..."warts and all"

A great day for walking, when we got to our planned stop for the day we still had plenty of energy and walked another 3 hours longer than planned.
It is very strange...if someone told me a month ago it was only another 3 hours further after walking a strenuous 5 hours, I would have thought them crazy.
But walking 3 extra hours after a long uphill slog seemed natural.
My feet are constantly in pain, my back and shoulders ache, but miraculously my knees are fine. I don't use my knee brace or my Korean patches.
But we humans can reach beyond the pain and the aches and we find the inner strength to keep on keeping on.
God Bless
Love to all
Rita

Dark, Cold, and Rainy

2009-09-16T12:48:00.002-04:00

Day 9-Santo Domingo de la Calzada-Belorado
7 hours-25.4 km

Today we started by getting lost. We walked in the dark, in a downpour, walking directly into the wind and rain. We had a difficult time finding the way markers on the way out of the village of Santo Domingo and we strayed away from the track a bit, but then found our way.

We walked for 2 hours into the wind and driving rain. When we got to the first village everyone stopped for a hot drink and a bite to eat. We all lingered longer than our usual 10-15 minute break. Nobody wanted to go back out in the rain. But by the time we left, it had stopped raining. It was an easy walk today through golden wheat fields and gentle rolling hills with giant stacks of hay bales at least 3 or 4 stories high.

It stayed windy and cold and we never saw the sun till afternoon, just before our final destination. I am still chilled to the bone.. And it just started raining again!!!

The hostel we are staying at offers a Pilgrims dinner. I asked the price and was told that after we eat, we can donate whatever we think the meal was worth. The generousity of some of these hostels is amazing. In some places you stay for whatever you care to make as a donation.

I like when we have a communal meal at the hostel. Although Pilgrims see each other during the day off and on, we usually chat just breiefly then move on, as most Pilgrims prefer to walk alone in silent comtemplation, prayer or meditation. Even my husband and I drift apart on and off during the day offering silent time to make an inward journey, which is very much a part of the Camino.

But at night, when we are finished with the job of walking and taking care of our daily needs, it is time to celebrate, our accomplishment, our new friendships and cmaraderie. It is a delight to enjoy a good meal and drink some wine with Pilgrims. The conversation and stories are lively, and the evening is full of laughter and joy.

I wish you peace, love and laughter
Rita

Meeting Amazing People

2009-09-15T13:55:00.003-04:00

Day 8-Najera-Santo Domingo de la Calzada
5 hours 45 minutes-22.5 km

To date:202km-126 miles

Wonderful wide country tracks through golden hay fields, farms and vineyards. We had one very long steep climb today, but at the top was a perfect picnic spot with marvelous views. It was very cloudy with a brisk wind whcih made for nice walking weather.

Each day is a gift. The views, the people, a bed to sleep in after a hard day of walking.

We have lost contact with some of our friends but were reunited with others that we lost track of. Of the hundreds of people that we have met, only 5 are Americans. We have met so many wonderful people from every where that are amazing. They have walked from very far. An Austrian couple started their Camino in Vienna in May and will walk all the way to Santiago. We met 2 Bavarian couples, one from Munich and the other from Chemsee, each couple started in June. And one man from Lichtenstein who started from his home in July. They call the way Jakobsweg (The way of Saint James) and they must walk over all the high Alps and the very high peaks in France to get to where we started. I find it just amazing.

This journey is much more than physical strength. It is a challenge of body, but when the body is spent and I must go on for another several hours, the mind takes over and I find an inner strength to carry me on. My inner strength comes from the thoughts of my family back home. I visit in my mind each one and pray for them and think of all the beauty and love and laughter that we have shared and I am carried by these thoughts.
Love to all of you

A Very Long Day

2009-09-14T15:02:00.003-04:00

Day 7-Logrono-Najera
9 hours 10 minutes-29.4 km

Last night we found out that the Pilgrim hostel in Narjera, our next stop was closed. There was much confusion. Everyone trying to figure out new plans for their walk. The village 10 km before Najera would have been a great stop and not such a long day. But that only is a small stop with a Pilgrim hostel with only 50 beds., and with so many Pilgrims on the road it would be nearly impossible for us to compete for a bed and it would have put us behind out planned schedule.
Some pilgrims took the bus to grab the first beds, others got up and left by 5AM to get there early.
We decided to stick to our planned schedule and come to Najera anyways. Most every hotel was filled with Pilgrims.
What a luxury to stay in a hotel. complete privacy!! A BATHTUB...which I hogged for at least an hour!! and a hairdryer. My hair, which my lovely niece cut real short and very retro looking, for convenience has seen neither comb nor hairdryer for over a week. It feels wonderful after 7 days of hostel living with no privacy, very cramped quarters, shared baths and showers, and snoring in 20 different languages!!!
This old body was not made for 2 nine hour hikes back to back though mountainous terrain.
So I am feeling pretty great even though very exhausted.

I wish you peace, love, and laughter
Rita

A Boy Named Su

2009-09-13T16:23:00.003-04:00

Day 6-Los Acros-Logrono
8 hours 55 minutes-27.8 km
We walked through wonderful natural paths, again through endless vineyards, always surrounded with gorgeous views.
The sunrise today was spectacular. We only had one long steep climb and a very steep descent.
There was a fiesta in the town of Viana with religious processions, bands and a traditional running of the bulls.
We had our lunch at a sidewalk cafe and watched some of the festivities, but opted not to stay for the running of the bulls, which would have put us 2 hours behind schedule on an already very long day.
Today I walked with a heavy heart and a heavy backpack during most of the morning.
Knowing that today was Sunday, and that everything would be closed, and also that on this stage of the journey there are very few fountains to fill our bottles; we had to carry our food for the day and extra water. When you are already carrying 15 to 20 pounds on your back, every added ounce is a burden. You learn to choose you food not by how enjoyable it will be to eat, but by how much it weighs and how much energy it will supply.
I can still feel the extra weight I carried in my sore shoulders tonight.
We have made friends with many on the Camino, but none so much as a group of 5 or 6 young Koreans. They all just met each other on the Camino and became quick friends.
We always stay at the same hostal each night and we spend time together either walking or sharing food and stories.
I told them my sister-in-law is Korean and the like that we love Korean food.
The photo above is(left to right) Pom, myself, Young, and Su.
Su always asks how my day went with my bad knee. He has some special Korean patches that look like big square bandaids that he uses for pain in his neck. He has been offering them to me for my knee, saying they take the pain away like magic. I thank him and tell him I will tough it out with my knee brace.
Yesterday was to be Pom's last day of walking with us, as he must return to Korea for his job.
This morning when we got up Pom had decided to walk part of just one more day and stay in Vianna, the town before our already planned stop. And of course his new young Korean friends decided also to make the early stop to spend the day and evening with him. That would put us several hours in front of them and almost certain we won't see each other again.
So it was all hugs and kisses and goodbyes. We took lots of photos and exchanged email addresses.
Just as I was leaving to start my walk Su told me," Because I won't see you again, I want to give you a gift, but this is all I have" And he gave me a package of his Korean "magic" patches.
It was a small thing, I know, but the gesture as well as the moment and the way it was given was so precious. I think I cried off and on for the first few hours, knowing how much I would miss my new friends.
I wish you peace, love, and laughter
Rita

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The Scallop Shell

2009-09-12T14:07:00.002-04:00

Day 5-Estella-Los Arcos
6 hours 10 minutes-21.7 km

Today was a perfect day for walking. Overcast all morning with a cool breeze made it just right, as there is very little shade in wine country.
We walked steadily uphill for more than 2 1/2 hours. Again we walked through rolling wheat fields, olive groves and ever more vineyards.
There was always the occasional shepherd with his sheep dogs directing their herds over the hills.
First you hear the distant tinkle of bells, then you see them coming over the rise in the distance. As the tinkling bells get louder and the sheep closer, you can hear them chewing their way across the countryside in unison. Marvelous!!

Our first stop this morning was at the Irache Winery. They have 2 Pilgrim fountains. One to fill our water bottles and the other is a wine fountain . Although the sun had not come up yet, we all had our traditional drink of wine from our scallop shell that we wear on our backpack to distinguish us as Pilgrims.
The scallop shell has always been the symbol of Saint James. I have heard many different versions of how it became the symbol. Here is just one of them:
When Jesus was crucified his Apostles went forth to spread the Word. The Apostle James went to Spain and when he returned to Jerusalem he was quickly beheaded by Herod Igrippa in 44AD, becoming the first Apostle to be martyred. James' followers stole his body and took it back to Spain by boat, they landed in Finisterre, the then known end of the world.
There was a pagan wedding going on and as the boat approached, the groom's horse spooked and fell from a cliff into the sea. Both horse and groom were presumed drowned. Suddenly, the horse and rider emerged from the sea alive and well and covered with scallop shells.
It is the first miracle attributed to Saint James (Santiago) and the scallop shell became the symbol of Saint James and those who make the Pilgrimage to his tomb in Santiago de Compostela.

I wish you peace, love, and laughter
Rita
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Entering Wine Country

2009-09-11T14:54:00.002-04:00

Day 4-Puenta La Reina-Estrella
6 hours 14 minutes-21.1 km
Today's walk was through gentle foot hills and farmland. We are leaving the high peaks of the Pyrenees and entering wine country. The Camino passes through many vineyards and farms.
We had only a few steep climbs today, and the descents were not so bad. I did not have to resort to my knee brace.
The medieval villages along this stage still have some Roman roads more than 2,000 years old. The stone houses and churches are beautiful.
I keep falling behind, as I am always stopping to snap photos, then I have to hurry to catch up.
We have met so many wonderful people from all over the world. I am making good use of my Spanish and even my limited German.
Friendships are struck up in an instant and some times we walk together for a while or share some nuts or fruit when we rest on the side of the trail or at one of the many fountains where we fill our water bottles.
Then if we lose contact of our new "friends" for a day or so, and they show up at the Pilgrim hostal, everyone is all excited to see each other; as if we found our long lost brother.
If someone shows up late after a bad day of walking, hot, dirty, and exhausted, they get a big cheery welcome and a few pats on the back for there effort.
Today a girl from Brazil had to walk in flipflops because the sole of her boot fell apart on a part of the trail far from any village. Everyone was distraught. No one could help her out because we didn't have any extra shoes in our packs other than flipflops ourselves. But we all stopped to try and help by giving support and encouragement. I saw that she made it to town, but her feet were a mess.
My lesson for today is that humanity is so strong and precious. There is an unbelievable energy on this Camino. We walk in the footsteps of millions before us and their energy is almost palpable.
We may all have come to the Camino for different reasons, but in the end there is a camaradarie that is not divided by religion, nor by politics nor by prejudice.
We walk together with open hearts, and open minds, and we share a very special experience as one endless stream of humanity walking this ancient footpath and savoring every moment.
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Queen's Bridge

2009-09-10T15:09:00.003-04:00

Day 2- Zubiri -Cizur Menor
8 hours 40 minutes-26.7 km

Day 3-Cizur Menor-Puente de La Reina
7 hours 15 minutes-19.6 km

Today was another strenuous walk, with very few trees, so we spent the day in the blazing sun.
We had a steep climb to Alto de Perdon (the hill of forgiveness). The mountains here are covered with windmills. We had great views looking back over the valley and Pamplona. It seems like you can see for ever and it's hard to believe we have walked so far and so high.
Our music for the day was the gentle whirring sound of The giant windmills.
We walked for 3 hours before seeing our first person. Then we met Madas from Latvia. He doesn't stay in the hostals. He prefers to sleep at churches under whatever cover he can find. He has a huge backpack and says it weighs 40 pounds. He doesn't carry a tent.
He walks much faster than us, but he slowed down to walk our pace throughout the steep up and down
slopes. We had great conversation. He speaks many languages. We stop for a meal, Madas moves on. I hope we see him again.
We spend longer than usual for lunch and by the time we are back on the Camino there are many Pilgrims.
Another long and steep decent today, but the knees were up for the challenge and never complained.
Tonight we are staying in Puente de La Reina (Queen's Bridge). The town has one of the most picturesque medieval stone bridges with 6 arches which span the ever present Arga River.

I wish you peace, love, and laughter
Rita
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Powerfully Simple and Glorious

2009-09-09T14:10:00.003-04:00

Again we started our day walking by the light of the waning moon, but we were under deep forest cover which made it very dark. We were walking on very uneven, steep terrain wit lots of loose rocks. It was a day to use headlamps and flashlights, and of course mine was at the bottom of my backpack. So I followed in the light of a few other Pilgrims.
It was very rough and rocky terrain with lot of steep ups and downs. But they were never too long, and the magnificent views made up for the rough walk.
During this part of the journey, the Camino crosses many times the Arga River, so we crossed over some beautiful medieval stone bridges and we always had the background music of the river song.
The last several hours of travel was on busy roads and through the city of Pamplona. The noise of the traffic whizzing by at what seemed like frightening speed after the tranquil mountain and forest trails. The noise of the city was sharp ana annoying, and the heat of the day rose from the pavement making for an unpleasant walk for an already exhausted body.
My feet didn't want to go any further and my knees were cranky all day. I had to put on my knee brace early in the day.

It was a much more physically challenging and tiring day than this old body cared for.
My lesson for the day was that our bodies are far more capable of the physical challenge than we give them credit for. And that if we concentrate on God's little treasures like birdsong and mountain flowers and the majesty of a countryside; that the physical pain and exhaustion is diminished and we are left with something powerfully simple and glorious.

I wish you peace, love, and laughter
Rita
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Peak Moments

2009-09-08T14:44:00.002-04:00

Day 1-Roncesvalles to Zubiri
22.5km-7 1/2 hours
There are reports of 200-300 Pilgrims coming through St Jean and Roncesvalles over the past few days. There are so many Pilgrims on the Camino that beds fill up fast.
We got to Roncesvalles so late last night we had to stay in the overflow area. Six sets of bunks in container type trailers. The also had huge green tents for some folks. I am glad we got the bunkrooms.
It was a very rushed and unorganized night. As soon as we got a bed, we dropped our things and went to the Mass and the Pilgrim blessing. It was in a beautiful chapel that I believe is part of the ancient Monastery. Six priests officiated the Mass. They welcomed the Pilgrims and read the names of all the countries represented, it was an impressionable list. It brought tears to my eyes and I noticed that I wasn't the only one. Another emotional moment was at the end of the Mass when all Pilgrims were asked to come to the front of the chapel for the Pilgrim blessing. The priests prayed for us and wished us a wonderful and safe journey in many different languages.
We had a Pilgrim meal after Mass, then called it a night.
We were up this morning shortly after 6AM and walked in the dark by the light of the moon. It was cold enough to see your breath, but by the time the sun came up we saw many Pilgrims removing layers and we were in short sleeves and shorts long before noon.
Today's walk was mostly through green forest and mountainous terrain. A picture book scene around every corner.
For me, the highlight of the day was when we stopped for a drink of water at the top off a high mountain pass and looked back at the mountains and valleys we had crossed. The scene was majestic; dotted with herds of cattle, some close, some way off in the distance. But even better was that in the stillness was the distant symphony of cattle lowing and the many different tinkling sounds of cowbells combined with the gorgeous view. I was completely absorbed in the moment. No words are ever adequate to describe a peak moment, but this one was one that I won't soon forget.
I wish you peace, love, and laughter
Rita
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First Camino Angel

2009-09-07T17:13:00.002-04:00

We finally arrived at Roncesvalles at 7:30, after a very long trip to get here. We had a great flight to Madrid. Got in early AM and headed for Av de Americas to get the bus to Pamplona, but the taxi driver told us that the buses to Pamplona left from a station across town. After a very long and expensive cab ride we found out that he was wrong. So we took the metro all the way back across town and missed the early bus to Pamplona. We got the noon bus and got to Pamplona one minute after the last bus to Roncesvalles left. The next bus would be tomorrow evening at 6PM putting us a day behind schedule.
I asked at the ticket counter if there was any other way to get here. He told me to we could try a taxi. He mentioned that a man ahead of me had just gone out to look for a taxi.
When I was leaving the station a man approached me and asked if I was headed for Roncesvalles. I guess my backpack was a dead give away.
He started making calls on his cell and found a van service to take himself, us and two others to Roncesvalles at a very reasonable price.
I thought all was lost and we would spend the night in Pamplona and get a late start or figure something else out.
But as luck would have it, I met my first Camino Angel who helped us out and how surprised I was when I asked him his name and he told me it was Santiago. They say don,t worry, the Camino will provide everything you need. I guess I am already finding that out.
I wish you peace, love, and laughter
RIta
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

We are on our way!

2009-09-05T08:52:00.002-04:00

The next time you hear from me, will be ...Live from the Camino
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

The Journey Begins

2009-09-05T08:16:00.003-04:00

"A journey of a thousand miles begins with the first step"

Lao Tzu

Yesterday we took our last long training walk. Our next long walk will be on the Camino de Santiago.

It was low tide, so we took our river walk. I tried to walk in my husband's footsteps as we walked along the riverbed. He has such a long stride, it made it almost impossible to do without falling in the muck. Now I know why he is always so far ahead of me and I have to work at it to keep up the pace.

Tomorrow we will be on a plane on our way to Spain. Today I am in a thoughtful mood, full of trepidation and questions.

Will I be able to make this long journey? Am I prepared enough? Physically, I think yes. But what about Mentally? Emotionally? Spiritually?

I live in one of the most beautiful places in the world. I have the greatest family that any one could ever ask for. Every day I give thanks for the abundance and beauty in my life. So, why do I wander so far? Why take on such a grueling challenge, both mentally and physically? What do I expect I learn, if anything?

They say I will walk one million footsteps on my journey across Spain. But if the saying is true, that "we are not human beings having a spiritual experience, we are spiritual beings having a human experience", then wouldn't it be right to say that our life IS the journey?

So many questions swirling in my mind....

I only know that I will walk consciously, and joyfully, and thoughtfully, greeting each day as a new day, a new experience; a new adventure of my mind, my body and my spirit. I will walk in the footsteps of all the millions of Pilgrims who have walked before me and I will be giving thanks for all that I have been blessed with every day of my life.

I wish you peace, love and laughter

Rita

Two Nice Surprises

2009-09-02T14:49:00.004-04:00

Early this spring, when I started my training for the Camino de Santiago, one of the first climbs was beautiful Mount Major in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. Although it is not a big mountain, hikers flock to it for its gorgeous views and it's "big" mountain feel. By that I mean it is a short climb, less than 3 hours roundtrip, but it is steep and somewhat challenging for the moderate hiker, both on the way up and the way down.

Here I am with my daughter Heidi and our friend Ellen at the summit. They have walked and hiked with me from the beginning, when the Camino de Santiago trip was only a dream. Their phone calls at the crack of dawn got me up and out the door for our early morning walks. They have added a playfulness and some humor to our walks and have made them fun and interesting, and both have been an inspiration to me.

During that first spring climb, I huffed and puffed on the way up and had to give up my backpack before reaching the top. And on the way down my knees were red and swollen and screaming with pain. I hobbled most of the way down the mountain. My knees are one thing that has had me worried about my journey along the Camino, as I know there are some really steep descents.

The first surprise is that we just climbed Mount Major again on a gloreous crystal clear morning. And what a difference! I climbed to the summit with full backpack with ease, not even slightly winded and the real miracle was the descent. Not even a whimper from my knees. No swelling or redness and no pain at all!!

I guess all my long hours of hiking and walking with full backpack have paid off. I also now use trekking poles, which at first I found very cumbersome; but on the descents they are a blessing.

The second surprise was that Heidi and Ellen have been saying that they would love to join me on the Camino. They each run their own business and have a house full of kids and men to take care of, so being away for more than a month was impossible. So I resigned myself to thinking that it would never be possible. Well, they did it. They just purchased tickets to Spain. They will meet me to walk the last 5 days with me (114kilometers or 68.5 miles).

Here I am with my husband on our second Mt. Major hike. He will walk with me the first 12 days, but then must return home, and since he cannot be with me till the end, I cannot think of two better people to have with me than my 2 faithful and encouraging walking partners. They have been with me from the beginning and I think it is so appropriate for them to be the ones with me when I finally arrive at the tomb of the Apostle Saint James in Santiago de Compostela.

Camino Books

2009-08-27T19:25:00.007-04:00

Training isn't the only preparation for a long distance trek, so besides walking and hiking and enjoying beautiful places in nature, I have been studying and learning about trekking and in particular about the Camino de Sanitago.

Reading and learning are two pleasures that I never seem to get enough of. So the research and reading have been a enjoyable part of my preparation.

Of the many books that I have read, here are two of my favorites.

"Walk In A Relaxed Manner" by Joyce Rupp

Joyce is a nun, spiritual writer and retreat leader. When she turned 60, she walked the Camino de Santiago with Tom Pfeffer, a long time friend and retired priest. The book was born of this journey.

The subtitle and theme is "Life's Lessons From The Camino". Each chapter tells about how she grew from making the pilgrimage.

It is full of spiritual insight and practical advice. I enjoyed her gentle "voice", as she makes observations of the lessons learned on her Camino trip.

A must read for all planning to walk the Camino, as well as for those looking for insights into themselves and life in general.

Of all the Camino books I have read, this one is by far the best.

"I'm Off Then: Losing and Finding Myself on the Camino de Santiago" by Hape Kerkeling

Hape Kerkeling is a famous German comedian and actor. At age 36, the self described "pudgy couch potato", set out to walk the Camino de Santiago. This lively and entertaining book chronicles his Pilgrimage.

He is well loved by in Germany for his antics and this is the book that has driven Germans in record numbers to walk the Camino. And I can see why. His stories are humorous and his witty and hilarious accounts of fellow pilgrims are real life.

His Camino experience is interesting and wonderfully told. It is hysterical and yet also spiritual.

AND MOST IMPORTANTLY...he dedicated the book to his grandma. That alone makes it a winner for me. He mentions her often in his book. It seems she was a driving force in his life. Anyone who listens to the lessons their grandma offers is OK in my books!!

One of the better Camino books I've read.

Blackberry

2009-08-24T10:58:00.007-04:00

On my way to take my training walk, the early morning sun was trying to break through some dark clouds and made such lovely patterns and streams of sunbeams, I had to pull off the road to sit and watch the playful banter of dark and light. This photo is from my Blackberry.

I recently bought a Blackberry. I was told that I will have phone, email and internet service where ever there is cell service, while I am on the Camino in Spain. So there will be no need to look for internet cafes along the way to be able to keep in touch with family back home and also keep updating my blog.

Well, I just started following a blog of a Pilgrim who is walking the Camino right now and is successfully blogging from his Blackberry. I don't know who his cell service provider is, but I am hoping that my provider will come through and provide me with the service they promised.

So this is my first "official" post and photo from the Blackberry. (I say "official" because I did a test post last week and deleted it. But one reader was quick to see it and left a comment).

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

Kissing Frogs

2009-08-19T21:22:00.008-04:00

Preparing for a 500 mile trek across Spain along the Camino de Santiago takes much more than just walking and hiking.

Making sure you have proper foot wear is the first and most important consideration; which I addressed here.

Having the right backpack is also of utmost importance. And, considering that I will be walking between 5 to 8 hours each day, keeping that backpack burden down to a reasonable weight is crucial.

I have spent much time looking over packing lists, backpack recommendations, and other issues about what to carry and what to leave behind.

When I was told that "You don't pick the backpack; the backpack picks you." I didn't take it too seriously. I wanted to keep the weight to a minimum, so I went out and bought the lightest weight ultra-light backpack. I found out quickly that it wasn't working, as my shoulders were aching after walking for only a few hours. So I returned the ultra-light and started researching and learning more about backpacks.

They say you have to kiss a lot of frogs before you find your prince. Yeah, well, I found out it's the same type of deal with backpacks, when looking for a perfect match.

I went to the two biggest outdoor outfitter stores in my area. And they really do take it serious when helping find the right backpack for you. I spent hours with the experts trying on backpacks. They not only fit you for the pack. They load it with weights and have you walk around the store for an hour or 2, to make sure it is "Mr. Right".

When properly fitted, the backpack should rest on the hips and put no strain or pressure on the shoulders at all. The burden is carried on the hips, and it becomes effortless, just like carrying a baby on the hip.

Believe me, it wasn't love at first sight. It took me many visits to both outdoor outfitter stores before I found my prince. And when I did, I knew it the minute I put it on.

Meet Mr. Right. The Gregory Jade 35

So, I happily take my training walks carrying 15 to 20 pounds for 5 or 6 hours very comfortably.
And I learned a valuable lesson...listen to the experts.
Happy Trails
Rita

Pampering Myself

2009-08-15T18:25:00.006-04:00

My Training walks for my up coming pilgrimage on The Camino de Santiago are getting longer. I walked two 6 hour back to back walks this week, along with my every day 1 hour walks.

It just happens that it was two of the hottest and muggiest days we have had so far this year. I was left feeling very tired and had aches and kinks everywhere.

No problem!! I knew just the cure for an achy, tired body. And , I didn't hesitate to indulge after each of my 6 hour walks.

I discovered a long time ago, a simple and enjoyable, self indulging "treatment". It is great after I have pushed to hard, whether it be from long hikes, skiing or my regular yoga practice or just about any time I want to pamper myself.

It's a hot salt and soda aromatherapy bath that I found years ago in the book Ultra-Prevention by Mark Liponis, MD and Mark Hyman, MD.
Add one cup of Epsom Salts (magnesium sulfate) and one half cup baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) to a hot bath. Add 10 drops of essential oil such as lavender, sandalwood or vanilla.
I added a few bubbles and wallah...a heavenly way to relax for 30 minutes while having the added benefits of relaxing your muscles, reducing tension, detoxing your body and sleeping much better.
Magnesium is often called the relaxation or anti-stress mineral because of it's calming effect. It's soothing properties, along with the alkaline-balancing effects of the baking soda, induce restful sleep.
Magnesium is also known to combat acids, toxins, gases and impurities in the body. The hot water draws the toxins out of the body to the skin's surface and the magnesium sulfate absorbs through the skin and helps draw the toxins from the body.
Aromatherapy can induce relaxation hormones in the brain. The bubbles...well..they just add a little luxury.
Add a glass of heart healthy red wine, a few candles and soft music for ambiance and you've got yourself a mini retreat. (And one that costs only pennies at that!!)
I wish you peace, love and laughter
Rita

One Step Closer to The Camino de Santiago

2009-08-11T15:26:00.010-04:00

Our Pilgrims' Credentials came in the mail from the American Pilgrims on the CaminoA Credential is sort of a passport. It serves 2 purposes. It identifies you as a Pilgrim, allowing you access to hospitality along the Camino. And when presented with all the proper stamps and dates of the stages of the Camino, it enables the Pilgrim to receive a Compostela certificate in Santiago de Compostela.
Each day the Pilgrim must get the Credential stamped and dated in the albergues, parishes or sometimes in commercial establishments, police stations or other places along the Camino.
Pilgrims who have walked, rode a bicycle or rode horseback and present the dated and stamped Credential, which provides prove that the Pilgrim has completed a stage of the Camino, are offered a bed, washing facilities and sometimes a communal meal. Most albergues or refugios are in monasteries, convents, hostels and some are in privately owned establishments and often times only charge a donation or small fee.Once the Pilgrim arrives to Santiago de Compostela and presents the Credential at the Pilgrim's office, they receive their final stamp and their certificate called a Compostela. The Compostela is the official certificate that vouches for the fact that the Pilgrim has completed their spiritual pilgrimage.Not all Pilgrims make the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela for spiritual reasons. Those that do not make the pilgrimage for spiritual or religious reasons do not receive a Compostela. However they do receive another certificate.

Training-River Walk

2009-08-05T07:07:00.014-04:00

The last 2 days I upped my Camino de Santiago training walks to two 5 hours back to back walks. And although the walks are getting longer now, they are never the same and never boring.

This week the tides were low during my early morning walks; so I got to slog along the river bank for a good part of the morning.

The river always makes for an interesting walk, and a little time for playfulness, too. In my opinion adults don't make enough time in their lives for playfulness and that is why some age so fast.

The salty smell of the river, the sloshing in the muck, wet up to my thighs from reeds and sea grass, all make for a delightful morning. I couldn't take the smile off my face.

I thought I was a kid again; stocking a Great Blue Heron. Chasing him along through the tall grasses, trying to get a photo. But alas, he was to quick for this old gal. As soon as I got close enough and got my camera ready he was off and hiding in the next clump of growth. You can barely see him in the photo. I finally gave up and found other things to occupy my senses.

Another thing I love about my river walks is that the landscape is so different and interesting that the hours see to fly by.

It fascinates me how the trees grow; their roots living half their time submerged under river water and then being completely exposed to the air and light for the other half.

I don't know what these lovely bushes are, but they give off a beautiful sweet fragrance and are a joy to look at.

So, with all this fun going on, 5 hours went by in a flash. Tough life I have these days while training for my 500 mile trek across Spain, don't you think??

Training-Staying Hydrated

2009-07-31T14:50:00.011-04:00

I like reading blogs. Some have beautiful pictures and interesting stories and you become privy to things about people you don't even know and will most likely never know. And sometimes you can learn things, too.

While training for my trek across Spain along the Camino de Santiago, I have been doing lots of walking and hiking. I know how important it is to keep my electrolytes balanced. Plain water, as good as it is for us, doesn't adequately rehydrate the body. So, I have been spending lots of money on electrolyte products, mostly the ones that come in individual packets that are easy to carry in my pack and add to my water bottle. Most taste horrid, but I know I need them, so I drink them.

Well, one of the bloggers that I read posted this. It not only reminds us how dangerous and deadly it can be if we don't take rehydration seriously. It gives some helpful tips on how to prevent problems. Visit Timecheck's blog and read this informative post.

After reading it, I googled "homemade electrolyte drink" and found thousands of links to recipes.

So, I went out and got all the ingredients and mixed up a batch. Surprisingly it tastes so much better than the electrolyte packets I have been buying. And, it's much cheaper.

Here's the recipe:

1 quart water
Tang, use measurement on container for 1 quart
1/2 tsp sea salt (sea salt has minerals not found in table salt)
1/4 tsp. Litesalt (which is potassium based)
1/2 tsp. baking soda
*optional juice of 1 lemon, for flavor(lemon has natural electrolytes)

Mix all ingredients well and put in your sports bottle. Drink throughout your hike or workout.
DO NOT give this drink to children under 12 yrs old. But, if you google "homemade Pedialyte drink", you will find a very similar rehydrating drink for children.
And those on any type of medication should consult their doctor before trying this drink.

Most of the recipes I found on the net called for 4 tablespoons of sugar(in the above recipe), but Timecheck had told me he used Tang in place of the sugar. Tang adds a nice orange flavor and from what I understand it is the only drink the astronauts use on their space trips. So, I guess if it is good enough for the astronauts, it's good enough for me.

Happy Trails
Rita

Feet First

2009-07-25T16:04:00.013-04:00

"More backpacking trips are ruined by sore feet than by all other causes combined. Pounded by the ground below and the weight of you and your pack above, your feet receive harsher treatment than any other part of the body."

-Chris Townsend, The Backpacker's Handbook

My sister-in-law says I have "good feet". She admires that I can wear any type of footwear from flip flops to boots to spiked heels with no problems.

Generally, most of us take our feet for granted, without realizing how much we really expect of them. And those that have "good feet" might not stop and consider all the things that can go wrong.

When training for a long distance trek one finds out fast how important our feet are. They are the "workhorse" of the whole trip. So proper foot care is the most important and first thing to consider.

There are so many things to think about: Boots? Walking or trekking shoes? Sandals? Which socks are best: Synthetic? Wool? Cotton? With or with out sock liners?

And, I am finding out that no matter which hiker you talk to or read, they each have their own opinions about how to care for feet, and how to prepare those feet for a long distance trek. I've heard recommendations from duck-taping my feet to soaking them in tea to toughen them up.

There are 2 things they all agree on:

1. Blisters are the bane of hikers and blister prevention should be foremost in our mind.

2. Making sure you have properly fitting footwear, whether it's boots or trekking shoes, and proper socks, sock/liner combination, whatever the material, will greatly reduce or even emlininate the possibility of blisters or other foot problems.

Everyone has different body types and different feet and foot issues, so I guess the only way to figure it out is to keep trying until you find out what works best. And, that is exactly what I have been doing. I now have quite a collection of hiking socks made from different materials and lots of liners too.

I would rather find out now, before I take on 5 to 8 hours a day of walking for more than a month's time, whether or not I will have foot problems.

So far this is what has worked for me: I prefer and feel more comfortable wearing hiking boots. Even though they are heavier and hotter for walking, it gives me a little extra ankle support and they are waterproof.

HiTec Sierra are the boots that work best for my feet.

I wear medium weight Smartwool socks with synthetic sock liners.

I find that rubbing my feet with a light coat of Vaseline before walking helps keep my feet soft and dry.
A great website, where I have found invaluable information about feet and foot care for the athlete is Fixing Your Feet.
Happy Trails
Rita

Training-Playing With Trees

2009-07-21T13:29:00.008-04:00

Some days friends or family accompany me on my training walks. This day, I decided to "introduce" my walking partners to an amazing and magnificent, sprawling tree that I had met in the forest.

The delightful spirit in the tree bewitched us and brought out a playful nature to our early morning walk. Which lead to several questions for pondering, that I believe to be true.

Do trees possess intelligence and wisdom?
Do they crave and enjoy love and attention the way we humans do?

Are there spirits dwelling in trees that communicate with humans?
Is playfulness a "language" that is understood between trees and humans?

When we walk in a forest and feel calm and relaxed, is that feeling evoked because the trees are eminating vibrations of peace and serenity?

Training-Enchanted Forest

2009-07-18T21:36:00.012-04:00

"In every walk with nature one receives more than he seeks" John Muir

We had a downpour in the wee hours . I was tempted to pull the covers over my head and sleep in, but I made the wise decision to get up for my usual early morning walk.

And what an amazing morning it was. Walking through the mist, the air cool and wet, made me feel like I was walking through an enchanted forest. Trails I should know by heart seemed strange and other worldly; inviting and enticing me to explore deeper into this dreamy landscape.
What a delightful way to start the day.

Training - A Walk In The Park

2009-07-16T11:20:00.011-04:00

"There is an intense but simple thrill in setting off in the morning on a mountain trail, knowing that everything you need is on your back. It is a confidence in having left the inessentials behind and of entering a world of natural beauty that has not been violated, where money has no value, and possessions are dead weight....." Paul Theroux

Training for the Camino de Santiago means long days of walking. So, I consider myself a lucky girl. Not only am I a lover of a good walk; I happen to live less than 10 miles from one of the most beautiful parks in the area.
Maudslay State Park is situated on the banks of the Merrimack River Formerly the estate of the Moseley family, one of the richest families in new England.

The park covers 480 acres and has miles of trails running through natural woodlands, rolling meadows, towering pine forests, as well as 19th century gardens and plantings.
One of the many treasures in the park is one of the largest naturally occurring stands of mountain laurel in New England. Frederick Moseley was a lover of nature and seeking to protect this beautiful place, in the mid 1800's he began to acquire portions of the laurel grounds and continued to purchase surrounding lands. By 1900 he had a substantial estate where he and his daughter built magnificent residences. Although no mansions remain, the grounds retain much of the beauty that graced the estate in Moseley's day.

Someone commented to me, while walking with me in this glorious sanctuary, that it was a shame I would be wasting my whole summer training and walking in this park. The statement so overwhelmed me, that I didn't know how to respond.

But, I guess, there is no response to one who misses the joy in the delightful melody of birdsong, the serenity of watching deer grazing in the meadow, the balm of the gentle breeze against your skin, or the sensuality of the earthy smell of the forest floor beneath your feet.

I feel a peacefulness in my heart when I start the day with a walk in a place where I am able to enjoy the glorious gifts that nature has to offer.

Rita

Training-"Keep Walking Ambrose"

2009-07-11T19:08:00.007-04:00

"Climb the mountains and get their tidings. Nature's peace will flow into you as sunshine flows into trees. The winds will blow their own freshness into you, and the storms their energy, while cares will drop off like autumn leaves." John Muir

Even though we walk every day, it would be foolish to attempt a long distance trek without some kind of training program.

Whether it be running, swimming, biking, walking, or any sport for that matter, the best training for it is to do the specific thing you are training for. If your event is running, train by running, if it is swimming, train by swimming, etc.

My pilgrimage through Spain will be about 500 miles through 3 mountain chains with several peaks of nearly 5,000 feet. Most of the walking is off road, sometimes through rocks, shale, gravel and uneven terrain. I will be walking for more than 30 days on average of 5 to 8 hours each day.

So, I have been training by walking and hiking. Fortunately for me, I love to walk and live in a beautiful area for walking. I generally walk for an hour or more each day just for the love of a good walk. But now that I have been training for my long distance trek, I have found that it is a must to walk for longer periods.

I will be carrying a backpack every day, so I have been walking with a fully loaded backpack during my training walks. Trust me, it is a lot harder to walk carrying 15 pounds on your back than just taking an evening stroll.

There are several good trek training programs available. At Do It For Charity.com there is a 16 week trek training program and it is what I have been using as the basis for my training, with some modifications that work best for me.

Basically, I walk from 1 to 2 hours daily, sometimes I skip a day. Each week I increase one or two walks by 1 hour. My long walk is now up to 5 hours.

Walking has so many healthy benefits. it strengthens muscles, bones and joints. It can reduce the risk of many diseases from heart attack, stroke, hip fracture, breast cancer and type 2 diabetes. It helps with weight loss, boosts good cholesterol, and prevents depression.

The list goes on and on. If you want to read more about the benefits of walking read this good article at AARP.com

Less than 2 months before I start my pilgrimage. I can't wait!!

Rita

The French Road

2009-07-06T12:01:00.014-04:00

"Life is either a daring adventure, or it's nothing " Helen Keller

There is a network of trails, followed by Pilgrims, from all over Europe that lead to Santiago de Compostela.

The route that I will be taking for my Pilgrimage, is known as the French Road or French Way. Most all pilgrim roads that lead to Santiago de Compostela merge at some point with the French Road. The French Road is the most traveled route and when one hears the term "El Camino" (in English-the way or road), it is generally the French Road that is referred to.

It starts in the Pyrenees, at the French border and runs roughly 500 miles across northern Spain through some of the most beautifully preserved medieval villages rich in heritage and some of the most scenic countryside and mountains of Europe.

Each year 100,000 people from all over the world, all ages, faiths and walks of life, make the pilgrimage along the Camino de Santiago.

Pilgrims walk on average between 5 to 8 hours each day, carrying the bare necessities on their back and staying in a network of places offering a bed and shower and sometimes a communal meal. They are called albergues and are often in monasteries, convents or hostels. Many albergues only ask a donation or small charge.

The journey is an amazing experience of simplicity. Pilgrims leave behind all the conveniences, comforts and luxuries of home, as well as the burdens, the stress and the politics.

They say that the road offers many lessons to those who walk it, the most profound being the journey of self discovery.

Rita

Sacred and Mystical Places

2009-07-01T15:39:00.020-04:00

"We are not human beings having a spiritual experience, We are spiritual beings having a human experience"

Teillhard de Chardin

Sacred and mystical places are as spiritually meaningful today as they always have been in the history of mankind. Nearly every culture in human history has honored the divine, the mysterious, the supernatural or the extraordinary. They are special places where the physical world seems to meet the spiritual world and these have become our sacred places. They are generally awe-inspiring natural places that are in some way through myth, miracle or legend connected with gods, saints and heroes. They are believed to have "power to heal the body, enlighten the mind, and awaken the soul."

One needn't be religious or even a believer to recognize and even honor that holy places, religious buildings and sacred art are some of the most beautiful things in the world. And since prehistoric times humans have traveled to these sites, making them the most loved and visited places on earth.

The ancient practice of pilgrimage is as popular today as it was in ancient times. And the Pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela is one of the top 3 pilgrimages in the world today only topped by Rome and Jerusalem. The mystery and the spiritual power of the Camino draws both the faithful and the curious.

"The idea that life is a pilgrimage and the really important aspects of life have been revealed to them through their experience of the route is a constant in Pilgrim narratives" says Nieves Herrero Perez, University of Santiago de Compostela.

The words I have heard most often from those who have made the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela is that it is "life altering".

Ten million visitors are expected to visit the resting place of Saint James the Apostle at the Cathedral of Santiago in 2010, which is a Holy Year (when Saint James' day, July 25, falls on a Sunday).

Rita

Medieval Footpath

2009-06-25T20:20:00.007-04:00

Saint James(in Spanish, Santiago) was one of the 12 Apostles of Christ. After Jesus was crucified, the Apostles were to go forth and spread the Gospel. As the story goes, James went to Spain where he had little success in converting the locals. Upon his return to Jerusalem he was promptly beheaded by King Herod Agrippa, making him the first Apostle to be martyred. James' followers secreted his body away in a boat and sent it back to Spain where they buried it and it laid hidden for several hundred years. Then, in 813 AD a curious hermit followed "sweet music and twinkling stars" to a remote field in Galicia, in northern Spain and discovered what was to be identified as the tomb of Saint James. King Alphonso II of Spain visited the site, built a church and monastery over the tomb and declared Santiago patron saint of Spain.

Pilgrimages to the site began and by the ninth century, the number of Pilgrims rose over the years, and peaked in the eleventh and twelfth centuries, when about a half million people made the pilgrimage and when many of the towns and cities along the camino were built. Most of these ancient villages have changed very little over the centuries. After around 1500AD the number of Pilgrims dropped off significantly because of reformation, political reasons and other factures. But In 1982 Pope John Paul II visited Santiago de Compostela and popularity soared once again and has grown steadily since then. In 1987, the European Union declared the Camino Europe's first cultural itinerary. In 1993 UNESCO added the Camino to its World Heritage list.
The Gospel tells us that James, son of Zebedee, was in his boat mending nets with his brother John, when Jesus summoned them, saying "Follow me and I will make you a fisher of men". James and his brother did follow Jesus. And if one considers that today 100,000 people a year make the pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela to visit his burial place, it would seem that James is still "a fisher of men" over 2000 years later.
Rita

Under The Milky Way

2009-06-24T16:58:00.005-04:00

My sister once told me she thought I had my head in the clouds and that I was always reaching for the stars. I never was sure what she meant by that. I have always been a dreamer, though, that I am sure of. So, now here I am reaching for the stars, but not just any old stars, I'm shooting for the Milky Way.

The Pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela is said to lie directly under the Milky Way, which guides the Pilgrim to the burial place of Saint James the Apostle. The "nickname" Milky Way goes back well before the time of Saint James when the ancient Celts had their own version of the camino(way/road), following the via lactea(Milky Way) towards the sea at Finisterre (Finis Terrae) the end of the known world, at that time.

Hence, the name of this log which I have created so that my family and friends, or anyone who cares to, can keep track of my progress as I make my Pilgrimage, walking more than 500 miles, through mountains and valleys, from the French border all the way across Spain, "under the Milky Way"

How charming and romantic to have the stars of our precious Galaxy, the Milky Way, to light the path and guide me on my journey. Even though I know that it will be both physically and mentally challenging and will take a great effort to make this trip, especially being the "woman of a certain age" that I am, I look forward with the sense of adventure and wonder of a child. I really think I am going to like this trip.

Rita

The beautiful Milky Way photo(used with permission) is by Larry Landolfi. Please visit his website and enjoy some of his amazing photos.